Kiss China Goodbye
In My Bloodstream: Lisinopril, Amlodopine, Omeprazole, Tamsulosin
On The Stereo: Nothing's Going To Change My World: The Beatles (How wrong they were)
Backward in time, again. 1998.
We were wrapping up our busy schedule with a few trips to the outer islands which make up Hong Kong. We toured a massive Buddha, which is a popular attraction for the Chinese, more than for tourists. It took a longish trip by bus, and when there, lots of walking and climbing before we even reached the steps. With Kath's current arthritic issues, she would never be able to do this trek again. It was quite strenuous for the fittest of us, way back then.
The hike up. This is the second stage.
A secondary temple, behind the Buddha, and visible from the top.
We were very high up, at this point, and after circling the upper terrace, we began the descent.
The temple had interior rooms and narrow hallways, and stairs, that seemed never-ending, with several exit doors to a variety of levels and views. We dead-ended several times. I think the builders must have tried to replicate intestines, the way the tunnels wended their way, throughout the trip down. Never knew what Buddha's insides looked like before. Instead of rice working is way down, this Buddha had people.
On our way to the beach
Then we were off to a beach, which I had not even thought about. We had been at the center of a concrete jungle. the only time you saw the sky, was when you looked straight up. Now we could walk a beach, or take a dip. This would be a welcome side trip. The lot of us were getting a little giddy. A beach. An honest to goodness beach.
An absolutely gorgeous stretch of sand, with beautiful vistas. Things were looking up.
Or were they?
On our way back from the beach.
Then we were off to the seaside fish market.
We took a long look around, looking for the similarities to Pike's Market in Seattle. It was not quite the same, as you can see behind me. However, today's catch, and perhaps last week's catch were on full display.
There were no parts of the fish and octopi which were not for sale. Eyes, cheeks, fins and tongues. Having then worked up an appetite, we were invited to lunch on the premises.
Our restaurant was the building with the balcony and flowers pots, above the third boat out. Who knew what we were served. Not me, to be sure. I do remember that the beer was good. Everything else was lumpy or slimy. Did I mention that the beer was good?
Getting wood for the stove, I think.
And we boarded the ferry for the trip back to our hotel oasis. There we met with the management and were introduced to the head chef and his entourage. They were selling their services with the appropriate enthusiasm and charm. They wanted our business. Deals could be made. And then we feasted like royalty. Again. The taste of lunch was soon forgotten. The smell might have still lingered on my nose-hair. Another grand night. And a late one, as well. Fun is difficult to leave.
We were up at 4am the next morning, for the long trip to Shenzen. Mainland China. At last. We took a train from Hong Kong to the border, and then we were loaded on a bus. We were handed our passports and told that the border was just ahead. We were given a number, and were told, explicitly, to say nothing while we were in the building. Not even to each other. We were apparently entering a humor-free zone. Not my favorite type of place.
To explain, at that time, and perhaps still, China had declared a neutral zone, to separate the people of Hong Kong, from the Chinese nationals. The citizens of Hong Kong could visit this area and even further inland, while the mainland Chinese were allowed into this area, to visit relatives, but not into Hong Kong. I believe that the government did not want their citizens to see capitalism at work and understand the freedom which those people had enjoyed. This middle zone is the area into which we were allowed.
The customs office was spartan and solemn. Several lanes were established for us to wend through. Everyone was dressed in military garb, and other than the agents who were examining us, all others carried automatic weapons. We had also been told that passports would not be stamped. The guides would not or could not explain. One can only surmise.
When my turn came to be the object of the agent's gaze, I said hello, warmly, and asked for my passport to be stamped. I wanted evidence. If I were to tell this story to my grandchildren one day, I wanted to show them my stamp. The only one to obtain one. Hah. I would be the winner.
Things went south at that point. The gunners woke up and made their move toward me. Our guides went bat-shit crazy and told me to be quiet. I thought this might be a problem with language. So I continued to pantomime the act of stamping my passport, pointing to the stamp, and then to the page the young woman held open. Things really started to heat. The guns were now up and pointed at me. I smiled and nodded, affirmatively. Please stamp. Thank you. People were yelling. English. Chinese. My gang thought, I'm sure, that they were now involved in an escalating international incident. That idiot from Alabama was going to be the end of them. The Kat Lady was shaking her head. She had long experienced my craziness. Another day in the life. Not amused? Perhaps. But I think she kind of likes the unexpected. She would later apologize to our travel friends for my behavior. And in doing so, she garnered their sympathy for the life she led. The best life ever! That is what I tell her. And to this day, she still laughs at my recklessness. I presumably just don't have all the parts that normal people were allotted. Some of you already know that.
What was I really thinking when the fracas began? Well, the Chinese wanted me to bring people to their country to spend money and improve their sagging economy. If they shot me or put me in prison, the likelihood of me bringing a larger contingent would diminish, wouldn't it? Others would hear and no one would ever venture there again. Negotiation. Logic. Time halted for a long, suddenly quiet, moment. And then someone in the room gave my agent a nod. My best guess.
I got the quizzical look from the agent, and then she stamped my passport. Efficiently. Just as I had asked. That was not so difficult, was it. However, our guides were not as pleased with me as I was. My bride never mentioned it again for the remainder of our trip. Maybe she had been hopeful that I would have been dragged off and she could have enjoyed the rest of the trip in peace. Naaah.
This, if you can believe it, is the first thing we saw, after we exited customs, communist China. Incredible. All of this customs nonsense one minute, and then a billboard for golf. Mission Hills, no less. The next one will likely be called Augusta. No need for originality when there are so many good, recognizable, names available.
We were to visit a kind of human zoo, where a representation of all the many distinct sects which were a part of the Chinese tapestry, were put on display. The various "tribes" were all living as they would, in their home areas. They dressed, ate and lived as they did in their natural habitat, and we would get to visit a mini China, from one end to the other.
On the way we drove on a seemingly brand new highway, with auto companies and electronic businesses flanking the road from its beginning to our destination. Signs with many well-known American names, as well as European, proclaimed their offices and facilities, building after building. This was a newly manufactured city. It was clean and vibrant and uber-modern. Apartments rose into the sky, as far as you could see. Absolutely stunning. I had no idea that so many western businesses had built and invested in this country. This city has over 12 million people and it was a backwater town only short years ago. We saw no hints of an older city. Shenzen is a classic example of what can be done, when there are no barriers to growth. And recent history can be wiped away. What was not seen as valuable was removed, and new infrastructure was completed, almost overnight. Government did not hinder. It actually drove its success. There obviously was no line of bureaucrats, lined up, with building permits and code restrictions. There were no tenants protesting their removal. Modern utilities became instantly available. We have nothing to compare. If we want a small hedge in our yard, approvals might take a month. We have learned to stifle development. In China, no one would dare interfere with their government's wishes.
This was far from the China that we had seen the day before.
We toured the zoo-villages and wandered. And wondered. It was somehow bizarre. Little villages on view. A mock up of their place of origin. I did not know if these people wanted to be there, or if they were coerced. Few looked particularly happy. Except the hoards of tourists. The place was jammed with families, doing just as we were. They too, were examining the vastness and the differences that were China. It was Disney-like in its approach and scale. They were happy. Really happy. They were getting to see their massive country and its people, with little to no travel.
Kathy was the big draw. Most, if not all of these people, had never left this part of China. A blonde, white woman was a bigger attraction than any of the cultural displays. Heck, you are bound to run across a Mongol somewhere. But Kath was not in their school books. All of the visiting Chinese wanted a picture with her and wanted to touch her. I get that part. Kiddies followed her everywhere. She didn't seem to mind being a celebrity. As ever, she was gracious beyond words.
Some beautiful people and spectacular garb.
We had been traveling since 5am and had not been to a bathroom.
I had to go.
The public bathroom was just that. Public. It was a large rectangular building, with one entrance/exit. It had windows all around, at about 10 feet off the floor. They provided the light and ventilation. And the bathroom was wide open. There were no partitions. There was no porcelain.
There was a trench all around the interior wall, several feet in from the wall, itself. And that was it. There were no diapers on babies and those many men and women and children who had to go, stood over the ditch, and did whatever they needed to do . Whatever it was, they just did it. Trust me, this was not a sexy thing. It was the first time I realized that gender-free bathrooms were not a problem. Everyone tended to their own business. There were no stares. Some might have glanced at me, as I was in slack-jaw awe. And there was no toilet paper anywhere. Not so much Disney anymore.
I peed.
Now I had fallen behind, and had to catch up with Kath and some of the others in our group. Not an easy task in a massive, moving crowd. I did what anyone would do. I joined a marching band that was part of a parade, wending down the streets. I joined up with a young lady playing a trumpet, in full marching band tradition. Shocked. Or fearful. One of those. That is how she looked at me. I flashed her my best grin and we marched in time. We were (at least I was) having a good time. Until our group saw me and yelled to flag me down. I bade my friend goodbye. I'm guessing she had a story to tell at the dinner table that night. I was making a dent in their culture. And in their history. I was not your typical passive tourist. One trip through this world. Get some mud on your tires.
We rallied with the rest of our group at some sort of beer hall-cum-conference center. It was one blazing hot day. Like August in South Florida. Maybe even more humid.
More good beer. I watched my bride drinking her beer from a bottle, and realized that she had yet to go to the bathroom. We had been gone for hours and hours, had drunk lots of water and beer, and she just had to be floating. She would not be cajoled into the unisex bathroom. Not by me, anyway. I don't know why. But no. Just no. No sense of adventure, that girl. I was going to follow her in and take her picture. She would have appreciated that. Oh well. Sooner or later, she will explode, I thought. Bang. And then the flood. Shoes will be soaked. Books will be written.
Me, with one of the village people.
We were waiting for dinner to be set up in a private room in the back. We were sitting at picnic benches, in a rustic, cavernous room, talking and laughing and tired. The door opened behind us and we were ushered inside. This did not look like the place where we supped beer. It was an almost elegant room, and a massive buffet held the center of the room. Tables were set with fine Chinese linens and adult beverage carts were whirling around the room. But the piece de resistance was behind a door on an outer wall.
A western bathroom. The women went wild. Twelve hours of hanging on had taken its toll. They lined up quickly, giddy and relieved. Waiting to be relieved. The first lady, in an energy rush, had managed to break the lock, so a watch patrol was hastily set in place. Each lady entered, holding her breath (and more), and exited, beautified and content. Ready for a party.
The trip home was as long as out trip in. But we were bushed. It became, in no time, a quiet ride home.
We were to visit the bird market the next morning. Early. About half of us met for breakfast, and abandoned the tour. We were all exhausted. That afternoon, we were packed for our trip home to Tuscaloosa. China, as beautiful, exciting, modern, and old as it was, was now in our rear view mirror. We have had the great good fortune to have traveled to many countries. Politically, differences are embedded. But most every person we have ever met, we would have loved to have kept as a friend. The Chinese were no different. Politics are dangerous. But this world's people are pretty cool. Just do not talk politics.
So I leave you to think about this country. About Covid 19, and how that might have been handled from Wuhan onward. We have difficulty in getting our citizens to shelter in place for 14 days. I do not believe the Chinese government had any problem with that.
And the people of Hong Kong, who were left behind by a benevolent Britain, and now will learn to obey the rule of law, with no debate. Choice is gone. They will soon find that out.
The power of political will and the strength of a giant economy. Lots of good and bad. Minds opened and minds closed. Winners and losers. The past and the future. Time will eventually unveil the survivor.
Been waiting a while to tell this story. Every word is true. And every event happened. And more. Hope you enjoyed our trip.
We will get back to real time next week. Lots to share with you. And who knows what this week still holds.
Covid 19 continues to scare us and take lives. A life in hiding is not just monotonous, but unnerving. Too much fear. Too little joy.
I do hope you all are faring well. If you have some encouraging words, or personal stories, I would love to hear them. If you would allow me to share them, please let me know, as I would not break a confidence. Take a minute, and share your hopes and fears with others like us. We need each other.
I will be arrested for over-hugging when this ends. It will be in all the papers. I miss human contact.
Love you. Stay healthy. Stay strong.
Think about you every day, Rosie.
jrobinmullen@gmail.com
On The Stereo: Nothing's Going To Change My World: The Beatles (How wrong they were)
Backward in time, again. 1998.
We were wrapping up our busy schedule with a few trips to the outer islands which make up Hong Kong. We toured a massive Buddha, which is a popular attraction for the Chinese, more than for tourists. It took a longish trip by bus, and when there, lots of walking and climbing before we even reached the steps. With Kath's current arthritic issues, she would never be able to do this trek again. It was quite strenuous for the fittest of us, way back then.
We were very high up, at this point, and after circling the upper terrace, we began the descent.
The temple had interior rooms and narrow hallways, and stairs, that seemed never-ending, with several exit doors to a variety of levels and views. We dead-ended several times. I think the builders must have tried to replicate intestines, the way the tunnels wended their way, throughout the trip down. Never knew what Buddha's insides looked like before. Instead of rice working is way down, this Buddha had people.
On our way to the beach
Then we were off to a beach, which I had not even thought about. We had been at the center of a concrete jungle. the only time you saw the sky, was when you looked straight up. Now we could walk a beach, or take a dip. This would be a welcome side trip. The lot of us were getting a little giddy. A beach. An honest to goodness beach.
An absolutely gorgeous stretch of sand, with beautiful vistas. Things were looking up.
On our way back from the beach.
Then we were off to the seaside fish market.
We took a long look around, looking for the similarities to Pike's Market in Seattle. It was not quite the same, as you can see behind me. However, today's catch, and perhaps last week's catch were on full display.
There were no parts of the fish and octopi which were not for sale. Eyes, cheeks, fins and tongues. Having then worked up an appetite, we were invited to lunch on the premises.
And we boarded the ferry for the trip back to our hotel oasis. There we met with the management and were introduced to the head chef and his entourage. They were selling their services with the appropriate enthusiasm and charm. They wanted our business. Deals could be made. And then we feasted like royalty. Again. The taste of lunch was soon forgotten. The smell might have still lingered on my nose-hair. Another grand night. And a late one, as well. Fun is difficult to leave.
We were up at 4am the next morning, for the long trip to Shenzen. Mainland China. At last. We took a train from Hong Kong to the border, and then we were loaded on a bus. We were handed our passports and told that the border was just ahead. We were given a number, and were told, explicitly, to say nothing while we were in the building. Not even to each other. We were apparently entering a humor-free zone. Not my favorite type of place.
To explain, at that time, and perhaps still, China had declared a neutral zone, to separate the people of Hong Kong, from the Chinese nationals. The citizens of Hong Kong could visit this area and even further inland, while the mainland Chinese were allowed into this area, to visit relatives, but not into Hong Kong. I believe that the government did not want their citizens to see capitalism at work and understand the freedom which those people had enjoyed. This middle zone is the area into which we were allowed.
The customs office was spartan and solemn. Several lanes were established for us to wend through. Everyone was dressed in military garb, and other than the agents who were examining us, all others carried automatic weapons. We had also been told that passports would not be stamped. The guides would not or could not explain. One can only surmise.
When my turn came to be the object of the agent's gaze, I said hello, warmly, and asked for my passport to be stamped. I wanted evidence. If I were to tell this story to my grandchildren one day, I wanted to show them my stamp. The only one to obtain one. Hah. I would be the winner.
Things went south at that point. The gunners woke up and made their move toward me. Our guides went bat-shit crazy and told me to be quiet. I thought this might be a problem with language. So I continued to pantomime the act of stamping my passport, pointing to the stamp, and then to the page the young woman held open. Things really started to heat. The guns were now up and pointed at me. I smiled and nodded, affirmatively. Please stamp. Thank you. People were yelling. English. Chinese. My gang thought, I'm sure, that they were now involved in an escalating international incident. That idiot from Alabama was going to be the end of them. The Kat Lady was shaking her head. She had long experienced my craziness. Another day in the life. Not amused? Perhaps. But I think she kind of likes the unexpected. She would later apologize to our travel friends for my behavior. And in doing so, she garnered their sympathy for the life she led. The best life ever! That is what I tell her. And to this day, she still laughs at my recklessness. I presumably just don't have all the parts that normal people were allotted. Some of you already know that.
What was I really thinking when the fracas began? Well, the Chinese wanted me to bring people to their country to spend money and improve their sagging economy. If they shot me or put me in prison, the likelihood of me bringing a larger contingent would diminish, wouldn't it? Others would hear and no one would ever venture there again. Negotiation. Logic. Time halted for a long, suddenly quiet, moment. And then someone in the room gave my agent a nod. My best guess.
I got the quizzical look from the agent, and then she stamped my passport. Efficiently. Just as I had asked. That was not so difficult, was it. However, our guides were not as pleased with me as I was. My bride never mentioned it again for the remainder of our trip. Maybe she had been hopeful that I would have been dragged off and she could have enjoyed the rest of the trip in peace. Naaah.
This, if you can believe it, is the first thing we saw, after we exited customs, communist China. Incredible. All of this customs nonsense one minute, and then a billboard for golf. Mission Hills, no less. The next one will likely be called Augusta. No need for originality when there are so many good, recognizable, names available.
We were to visit a kind of human zoo, where a representation of all the many distinct sects which were a part of the Chinese tapestry, were put on display. The various "tribes" were all living as they would, in their home areas. They dressed, ate and lived as they did in their natural habitat, and we would get to visit a mini China, from one end to the other.
On the way we drove on a seemingly brand new highway, with auto companies and electronic businesses flanking the road from its beginning to our destination. Signs with many well-known American names, as well as European, proclaimed their offices and facilities, building after building. This was a newly manufactured city. It was clean and vibrant and uber-modern. Apartments rose into the sky, as far as you could see. Absolutely stunning. I had no idea that so many western businesses had built and invested in this country. This city has over 12 million people and it was a backwater town only short years ago. We saw no hints of an older city. Shenzen is a classic example of what can be done, when there are no barriers to growth. And recent history can be wiped away. What was not seen as valuable was removed, and new infrastructure was completed, almost overnight. Government did not hinder. It actually drove its success. There obviously was no line of bureaucrats, lined up, with building permits and code restrictions. There were no tenants protesting their removal. Modern utilities became instantly available. We have nothing to compare. If we want a small hedge in our yard, approvals might take a month. We have learned to stifle development. In China, no one would dare interfere with their government's wishes.
This was far from the China that we had seen the day before.
We toured the zoo-villages and wandered. And wondered. It was somehow bizarre. Little villages on view. A mock up of their place of origin. I did not know if these people wanted to be there, or if they were coerced. Few looked particularly happy. Except the hoards of tourists. The place was jammed with families, doing just as we were. They too, were examining the vastness and the differences that were China. It was Disney-like in its approach and scale. They were happy. Really happy. They were getting to see their massive country and its people, with little to no travel.
Kathy was the big draw. Most, if not all of these people, had never left this part of China. A blonde, white woman was a bigger attraction than any of the cultural displays. Heck, you are bound to run across a Mongol somewhere. But Kath was not in their school books. All of the visiting Chinese wanted a picture with her and wanted to touch her. I get that part. Kiddies followed her everywhere. She didn't seem to mind being a celebrity. As ever, she was gracious beyond words.
We had been traveling since 5am and had not been to a bathroom.
I had to go.
The public bathroom was just that. Public. It was a large rectangular building, with one entrance/exit. It had windows all around, at about 10 feet off the floor. They provided the light and ventilation. And the bathroom was wide open. There were no partitions. There was no porcelain.
There was a trench all around the interior wall, several feet in from the wall, itself. And that was it. There were no diapers on babies and those many men and women and children who had to go, stood over the ditch, and did whatever they needed to do . Whatever it was, they just did it. Trust me, this was not a sexy thing. It was the first time I realized that gender-free bathrooms were not a problem. Everyone tended to their own business. There were no stares. Some might have glanced at me, as I was in slack-jaw awe. And there was no toilet paper anywhere. Not so much Disney anymore.
I peed.
Now I had fallen behind, and had to catch up with Kath and some of the others in our group. Not an easy task in a massive, moving crowd. I did what anyone would do. I joined a marching band that was part of a parade, wending down the streets. I joined up with a young lady playing a trumpet, in full marching band tradition. Shocked. Or fearful. One of those. That is how she looked at me. I flashed her my best grin and we marched in time. We were (at least I was) having a good time. Until our group saw me and yelled to flag me down. I bade my friend goodbye. I'm guessing she had a story to tell at the dinner table that night. I was making a dent in their culture. And in their history. I was not your typical passive tourist. One trip through this world. Get some mud on your tires.
We rallied with the rest of our group at some sort of beer hall-cum-conference center. It was one blazing hot day. Like August in South Florida. Maybe even more humid.
More good beer. I watched my bride drinking her beer from a bottle, and realized that she had yet to go to the bathroom. We had been gone for hours and hours, had drunk lots of water and beer, and she just had to be floating. She would not be cajoled into the unisex bathroom. Not by me, anyway. I don't know why. But no. Just no. No sense of adventure, that girl. I was going to follow her in and take her picture. She would have appreciated that. Oh well. Sooner or later, she will explode, I thought. Bang. And then the flood. Shoes will be soaked. Books will be written.
We were waiting for dinner to be set up in a private room in the back. We were sitting at picnic benches, in a rustic, cavernous room, talking and laughing and tired. The door opened behind us and we were ushered inside. This did not look like the place where we supped beer. It was an almost elegant room, and a massive buffet held the center of the room. Tables were set with fine Chinese linens and adult beverage carts were whirling around the room. But the piece de resistance was behind a door on an outer wall.
A western bathroom. The women went wild. Twelve hours of hanging on had taken its toll. They lined up quickly, giddy and relieved. Waiting to be relieved. The first lady, in an energy rush, had managed to break the lock, so a watch patrol was hastily set in place. Each lady entered, holding her breath (and more), and exited, beautified and content. Ready for a party.
The trip home was as long as out trip in. But we were bushed. It became, in no time, a quiet ride home.
We were to visit the bird market the next morning. Early. About half of us met for breakfast, and abandoned the tour. We were all exhausted. That afternoon, we were packed for our trip home to Tuscaloosa. China, as beautiful, exciting, modern, and old as it was, was now in our rear view mirror. We have had the great good fortune to have traveled to many countries. Politically, differences are embedded. But most every person we have ever met, we would have loved to have kept as a friend. The Chinese were no different. Politics are dangerous. But this world's people are pretty cool. Just do not talk politics.
So I leave you to think about this country. About Covid 19, and how that might have been handled from Wuhan onward. We have difficulty in getting our citizens to shelter in place for 14 days. I do not believe the Chinese government had any problem with that.
And the people of Hong Kong, who were left behind by a benevolent Britain, and now will learn to obey the rule of law, with no debate. Choice is gone. They will soon find that out.
The power of political will and the strength of a giant economy. Lots of good and bad. Minds opened and minds closed. Winners and losers. The past and the future. Time will eventually unveil the survivor.
Been waiting a while to tell this story. Every word is true. And every event happened. And more. Hope you enjoyed our trip.
We will get back to real time next week. Lots to share with you. And who knows what this week still holds.
Covid 19 continues to scare us and take lives. A life in hiding is not just monotonous, but unnerving. Too much fear. Too little joy.
I do hope you all are faring well. If you have some encouraging words, or personal stories, I would love to hear them. If you would allow me to share them, please let me know, as I would not break a confidence. Take a minute, and share your hopes and fears with others like us. We need each other.
I will be arrested for over-hugging when this ends. It will be in all the papers. I miss human contact.
Love you. Stay healthy. Stay strong.
Think about you every day, Rosie.
jrobinmullen@gmail.com
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